Koh Chang and Bo's

Koh Chang is made up of several beaches - but apparently the best being one of the first 'white sands beach'. We have had Chang in our minds as the last stop as it is very close to Bangkok and comes recommended by our friends Sonya and Toby who stayed there last year at an establishment called Independent Bo's - a true bohemian paradise on the far side of the beach, hidden away from commercial development of the novelty bungalow empire.

For a mere 200Baht a night you can stay in this crazed complex of controlled chaos. It seems that you can paint the walls if you feel the need - and help with this ever lasting mural project that almost has a mind of it's own. It kind of reminds me of the movie 'cube'. Although cube is an insane thriller/horror with massive gory booby traps - the concept behind it was a place that was built by no one -- people were contacted in to do different jobs giving no ownership at the end.

There was one guy running it while we were there called Owen - he didn't seem to talk too much -just grunting and watching TV - but he had the coolest tattoos I had ever seen. All over his chest and back were leaping tigers attacking nipples, arms and rib cages.. a true devotion.

Independent Bo's

It is built up a jungle bank through twisting pathways of hand layed concrete steps, and bridges that are nailed any which way to ensure they hold tight. The rooms are simple - with a mosquito net to stop the ravaging beasts eating you (and you do need it), bed springs that attack your most vulnerable parts, and a simple bathroom with cold shower.
I think the special part is the front deck where you get to witness the raging ocean trying its best to suck independent Bo's down into the fathoms below. As the nights set, bats race about the trees racing in circles, and geckos begin their mad hunt for the prized moth.


We stayed a couple of nights here - enough to be thoroughly greasy and ready for a hot shower down in one of the bungalows I mocked earlier - come on, we're not that hardcore ;)

The beach itself is really interesting. Throughout our holiday we have had calm azure blue postcard like swimming oceans. This one is like a hardcore west coast beach with pounding waves and solid rips labeled with warning signs.. they even hire lifeguards around the wealthier resorts.

As the tide goes out the beach is littered with 1000's of baby crabs digging holes and creatingartwork with balls of sand. They were really interesting to watch as after they dug a hole they would come up and start landscaping their front garden by rolling little balls of sand and building baby barriers around their fortresses.. ok - I had a bit of time to study... maybe a bit too much time.