Thursday, March 19, 2009

Easy Riders - without the stars and stripes

We had heard a lot about the easy riders before we had met them. Our intention was to get to Dalat and then they would probably find us. Before we even got off the bus I saw a Easy rider and made eye contact for a split second too long – like a hawk going for the weak rodent below he swooped on us on check in. That was all fine though, as our plan was to find them anyway.

They are pretty funny guys. As a sales incentive they said they would take us on the bike for a coffee.. we were really excited, hopped on and they fired the underpowered chopper look a likes up and drove us 3 metres to the coffee shop and said “we’re here, get off”.

First day.

  • We started at a prompt 8.30 and had 220 kms to cover. This seemed like a small ride to me, but soon realised it would take us until 5 with the 35 odd stops they make for us on the way ..I think most of the stops are for their cigarette breaks.. in fact, they tend to stop quite often and get you to walk in sweltering heat for 500m or so for our legs, but we suspect this is their ciggy/toilet break.
    This is a fantastic way to travel, as they take you to hill tribes and villages that you couldn’t imagine, let alone get to on a bus.. we were effectively off the beaten track in Vietnam. . and learning non stop. I feel we have seen the real Vietnam in many ways and was a invaluable experience.






I’ll list the trip and make some notes beside the stops.

- Gerbera growing fields – flowers, not much to say here except for the sheer beauty. These flowers can be bought for about 25c each.


- Silk farm – incredible! They have caccoons with worms in them, which they boil to kill the worm – then in the water the silk is threaded and pulled onto reams. From there they take them to these giant mechanical machines that make the fabric – patterns are created with punch sheets that are fed through – like automatic pianos.



- Elephant waterfalls – Amazing place – a giant waterfall that you have to clamber to down some treacherous steps. The only thing that wrecks this experience is the rubbish.. This is quite an important note to make. Vietnam road ways are a giant rubbish bin –the locals throw their rubbish out the window everywhere. When rubbish piles up too high someone will come along and burn it off in a roadside bonfire.. it’s pretty heartbreaking to see such a beautiful place be destroyed over something that can be easily remedied.


Buddhist Pagoda – WOW – you’ve never seen anything so big laughing at you! I wanted to climb up and give it the biggest NIPPLE gripple in the world for a photo – and now regret my resistance. A sad note to make here is that when trying to find the entrance Desh and I wandered down a dirt road behind the Pagoda. Amongst bits of rubbish were hyperdermic needles everywhere! When asking our guides about it later, their exprressions turned sad and they explained that the monks in Vietnam are addicted to heroin! Can you believe it?? Apparently it is really common that they turn to this addiction and are fed by Vietnamese smuggling it in from China. I guess you could say they are Monky Junkies.

- We drove through hilltribe villages next and observed from the road until stopping for lunch on the very peak of a mountain. We ate very very well here and have to say the food was the best we had to this point. It was a true feast and the bill came to $3 each. This is the view from our lunch table.


- The afternoon was spent stopping at villages, silk worm farms, rice wine makers, and minority villages (the kids are paid with lollies by us – the guide stated he was a god to them.. kinda wrong). We eventually pulled up to the hotel and got into drinking the happy water (rice wine) with the many easy riders and tourists that had pulled in for the night.
Day 2

- Extremely hung over and not too stoked about leaving at 8.30.. but nonetheless we did. We first stopped at a minority village and walked about. They have elephants there to ride, but we weren’t happy about doing that as the conditions they live in as worker elephants aren’t that kind.
- We went to a local market which is where minorities come to sell what they make - such as harvested bamboo or brooms made from bamboo. There is loads of festering meat in the hot sun.. needless to say we didn’t stay too long.

- We belted along the rice pattie roads trying to escape the hot sun. At about 9.30 we came across a man in the middle of the road swaggering totally drunk – my guide said many minority villagers get wasted as they have nothing else to do.



- We found This bombed out bridge and church next which I insisted to take photos of – as the Americans had bombed it 40 years ago and it seemed so preserved in a strange way… pointing high with pride.

- Next was a mushroom farm. This was a highlight as they had a pet python. Our guide hit the cage over and over saying a snake was within. I thought he was kidding until the owner opened it and pulled it out gesturing to me to take it. Hey, fine – it is only a 21kg python with the nearest hospital being who knows how far. She put it around my neck, and it strangely felt really safe – after a few seconds it felt fine to hold it’s head and direct it about – very cool and slithery. They made Ladesha come over and have a go also – which was fantastic – her reaction was priceless to start with, but she felt confident within no time also.

- These girls lived at the house with the snake and the mushrooms - they insisted they sing us a song - firstthey sang A,B,C - then they sang if you're happy and you know it. GREAT!



- After traveling long dirt roads we came to another waterfall down some secret ancient stairs – that apparently only easy riders know about? We went swimming here and cooled off which was super refreshing.


- Another waterfall followed – but the day was soooo hot at this point that we suffered badly walking about it.

- We drove into the cooling heat through villages and towns until we got back to our next hotel.


Day 3


- First stop was some rubber trees. We were shown how to bleed the trees. Once again – there was a hyperdermic needle sticking into the trunk. My guide thought it would be funny to wipe the rubber on my arm hair. Lets just say that half my arm has no hair where I managed to get it off - the other half of the strip is covered in rubber and road dirt until petrol or wear and tear gets it off.
- Next stop was a peppercorn tree fram – we were explained that these are extremely valuable – more so than coffee.. Heaps of cicadas here. Our guide has no problem eating them – this shot is him posing with a beating cicada in his mouth.


- Rice paper rolling – yum yum – we ran out of gas right outside this shop that makes rice paper (like pancakes) so we stopped and ate here. The kids here are very cute – this one decided to smile for us when you point the camera at her.


- The rest of the afternoon was spent drivng fast and hard with 220kms to get done for our drop off at Jungle Beach. We stopped for lunch – and this place sold preserved snakes in a jar – just the same kind we get at home with the jelly snakes… hmmmm.. wonder which one I’d prefer to eat. A brick factory and kiln. Then we did the final 60kms in one hit with everyone with us anticipating the luxury of hutts on the beach with white sand and a jungle behind us.. and that’s just where we’re at right now.





Sunday, March 15, 2009

Crazy House - Moon Villa - Dalat

We visited crazy house today. This is a place that has been under construction since 1990 by the daughter of the 2nd president. She even works in the ticket booth with a fur coat and outrageous makeup to boot.
She went to study in Moscow and took back her plans to build a tree like natural flowing palace with the influence of Gaudi.


The next shots is our walk through - when you see pix of us going over bridges - these are extremely high and miniature steps to follow. . The place doesn;t seem to have a safety code and the barbed wire is made from high tech broken glass and glue.

Strolling in Dalat


Above - Some biscuits for sale - very happy lil biscuits




Saturday, March 14, 2009

Bunny hopping to Dalat

We arrived in Mui Ne on a large airconditioned 'open tour' bus. Open tour means that you can stop somewhere but then theoretically pick it up another day. We booked our next leg and the specs looked the same. Unfortunately the open tour bus was a mini bus packed to the brim with luggage and tourists.. and just when you think you have rammed the last guy in, they can always make room for one more! I got packed in the last seat with the luggage. The funny thing is that my legs were too big to fit in so I had to stretch them in the aisle. When they saw this they conveniently packed a bag under them ;)

The next thing they do is take short cuts to save gas money - So we took a 4 hour stretch of road that had giant holes to bounce and swerve continuously. As we started to climb the road became more tolerable and the temp began to drop to cool mountain air.

I love this shot - as you can see the sfumato styled layering of the distant mountains - the humidity blends them gently throughout.
Arriving into Dalat was really cool - you suddenly notice the cool air, a fresh scene of pine trees and a distant gondala dangling at a dangerous height. The town is beautiful and reminds people of the French alps with the city built in the basin and hills surrounding us everywhere.

The bus pulled us into a hotel and straight away a guy gets on saying this is his families hotel and we are welcomes to check it out. I'm pretty blown away by it and think nah, there is no way we can afford this. Well - he said very quick that it is $6 US each and breaky included.. we were promptly shown the penthouse suite with 2 double beds, a balcony and large bathroom - couldn't be more stoked !!!



The next shot is the view from our balcony - we can see the South side of the town which is very pretty.



The people here are very chilled out in comparison and the hassling pretty much stops.
What cracks me up is they all must dare each other to say hello. In Saigon Hello means they are about to offer a service - but here a kid might say hello, and before you have replied a whole mob of them are cracking up and running away. We have had adults do the same thing - the best way to deal with it is laugh louder and turn the joke on them.. ha ha
Secondly - when I wear my Nike snakeskin shoes - kids stare and talk (like they are plotting to steal). They either really like them and want them badly - or I am insulting large numbers with my openess to the sweatshop living??

Here are some road trip shots.



Thursday, March 12, 2009

White and bright, but not quite

We are in Mui Ne right now. A few people had told us not to spend much time here - and well, I would have to agree. Apart from chilling out on a small strip of white sand polluted by resorts and well.. rubbish, there ain't too much to see. We are staying at a really nice resort called Sunshine. It is one of the few with beach and grass, and is a really nice clean room.

We hired a scooter today and decided to explore rather than do the tourist guides which can be a bit drawn out. Was well worth it, as we explored the whole strip and sand dunes where kids rent you plastic sheets to slide down the hill. We also drove back to Phan Thiet to have a looksie - On the way a fellow scooter rider at the front of the pack hocked a fat lougie - I tried to swerve but I collected some of his spittle on my face at 60kmh ( I imagine this happens a bit).. our tour guide the other day said he was riding when a guy in a truck threw an apple out the window and clocked him on the helmet.

The fresh eyes were blown away by the fishing boats around here though. They are quite a splendid site - thousands of boats (seemingly identical) anchored along the coastline over miles of water. It's a crack up watching them fish.. They go out in these giant salad bowls - I don't know how they row them, I'd be going in circles. The poorer ones cruise out in a innertube tyre and hang with their reel - you can just see their heads bobbing.


The food here is fantastic! We went to a restaurant last night - and for $10 nz (prob a bit pricey ;) we had a live snapper shown to us and then Barbequed with lemongrass, rice and salad. Breaky was free with room and was buffet fruit and choice of something from the menu - I chose the mango filled pancakes - ahhhHHHHH sweeet maple.



Tomorrow we head to Dalat. From here we are hoping to hire the Easy Riders (motorcycle guides) to take us from there to Nha Trang.. about 250km. We will probably skip Nha Trang.. as it is a sucker tourist trap, and instead head over to jungle beach which comes highly recommended.

Tuesday, March 10, 2009

Motorcycle diaries

We are heading to MuiNe tomorrow - so today we headed out for our last exploration mission from our District 1 to Dong Khoi. This is basically where all the rich tourists hang by their hotels. You can take a river cruise, but reading up about it, it is a tourist scam as raw sewage gets pumped into it.. and looking close it aint that pretty >> apparently government is trying to herd locals away. It is also well known for bag snatchers. On that topic - we were having dinner when there was a loud commotion and screaming then the cops pulled up and went on a chase >> Apparently a motorcyclist had driven close to a tourist and then grabbed a bag pulling them down the street. An ambulance came, but we didn't see the injured party.

Shot of Desh eating icecream at 'Fannys'

Went to a really cool shop called lotus and looked at their 'original' propaganda posters for sale - they were quite amazing, and was really keen to get one - but they are $80US and they would have no home.. or room.
Also came across a 2nd hand book shop which had incredible old postcards, maps, building plans. holiday photos from tourists in the 50s etc.. we ended up getting some cool cards.

After lunch went to the French styled City post office - amazing building and filled with painted maps and portraits of our great Uncle Minh.

To get home - we figured best to try the motorcycle madness in this city - it truely is something you will never see again - with 12million people and 6million motorbikes all fighting for position. So for about $2 you can get on the back of one almost anywhere and get a ride home. It was frightening seeiing how and when they decide to give way - and of course they get into the street half a second before you do >> which is enought to see 8 motorbikes skimming your arm.

Serving Nam

Twas yesterday we did a tour to the ChuChi tunnels. It's preety shammy really but learned some crazy stuff. Apparently there were 600km of underground tunneling with the most insane American traps I have ever seen - very simple and very brutal - like bear traps, but designed to swing and barb testicles.. Crazy huh - only they could think of it. We got to experience a tunnel - which I reckon is borderline tourist fun. Basically you burrow for 100m into these super tight super dark holes of claustrophobia.. the funny thing is that the real thing was so small that your average westerner wouldn't fit.. the Americans called it the tunnel of hell. The Vietnamese lived in them for up to 10 YEARS.

At the end I had a go with an AK47 - you just have to - I felt since we traveled 2 hours each way it would be a must. $1 US per bullet meant I fired 10 - 6 went off in a second searching for Jonny in the trees. 3 jammed and 1 fell out and had to be put back in.. I mowed into a dirt bank and not the target >> but that was pretty choice I have to say.

Talking to my hotel man here at breaky - he said that 3 years ago a tourist turned a gun on himself and blew his head away > imagine being on that tour. Cripes.

We were encouraged to take photos with friendly Guerillas - ones that don't bite or burrow.


Saturday, March 7, 2009

It rains it pours

First day out and about today. Naturally we were awake at 5am watching movies on the lappy and counting down till the 7am breaky call. We hit the streets with no real destination, but after a couple of hours we ended up at the wartime museum. It is a heavy view of the Vietnam war - and I won't go into detail - but images were a sickening reality >> and the message was clear that this was a display of what America did to this country, with killings more like a gruesome competition between G.I's. It gave me heavy boots!

After being tugged about in the Ben Thang markets we decided to hit a bar in our district. I had just taken another one of my obsessive photos of the power cabling that threatens us from above and purchased a photocopied copy of Amercian Psycho when a black cloud came from above. A few drips fell and then the heavens rocked us with BUCKETING rain! I've never seen anything like it. Not only did it rain and not stop - but the streets filled up like a swimming pool and wouldn't drain. So after we settled the bill, I had to remove my shoes and socks and wade through the pools up to my knees feeling all street scum between my toes. While sheltering under a shop front I noticed that the flooding had chased these giant cockroaches out to higher grounds and they were in a mad panick. I was talking about them to another tourist when I felt a weird scramble go UP MY LEG heading for the highest ground in site - the cave opening of my shorts. I looked down and to my horror it was a mad cockroach with a mission - I had to kick my leg with a girlie scream. The tourist laughed and then I was running again. I'm now sitting in my undies drying out ;)

Friday, March 6, 2009

I see a red door

We thought Thailand was crazy - reckless - and out of traffic control. It has NOTHING on NAM.
We have traveled a grand total of about 8kms and came out of the car shaking - not really for ourselves, but more witnessing the survival of an unfathomable cluster of ruleless motorcycle pilots careering at us with no system in place.

It was so mind blowing that Ladesha who was rearing for some party action, quietly said to me I think I'm worn out watching this, I need a little nap. . Crossing the road to the hotel was seriously unreal >> Our driver told me to wait with a stern voice.. We gathered our bags with the other tourists and played a game of real life frogger on the road. I'm not lying - we were on a pedestrian crossing and not one person will dare stop.. they dart around you and for you with reckless abandon. The closest visual description I can give is sticking your finger in a stream of water and watching it break and reform in smooth aerodynamic arc.

After checking in, she went straight to sleep - I think she is dreaming of waking up somewhere sane.

I'm looking forward to tomorrow - it's just such a sweet menu for fresh eyes. Full families on bikes - miles of twisted power cables dangling without pattern - catacombs of one man shops and sprawling pavement shoe stalls. Until then..

Check out the power cables - watch your head.